The boats come into Sesimbra a little after four. By six the good crates are spoken for, so that is when I am there, with a coffee from the van and no list.
What I look for
Clear eyes and a firm belly, the same as anyone. After that it is about what the kitchen can do with it tonight. A crate of small red mullet is a plate for the oven. One big sea bass is a plate for the table to share.
Never more than three fish on the menu.
Whatever is cheapest is usually the freshest.
If it is not there, it is not on.
Back by eight
Rui writes the menu when the van is unloaded, not before. That is why the plates section changes more than any other part of the menu, and why it sometimes runs out by nine.
